When we say we’re focused on “workwear elevated by tailoring soaked in poetry”, we’re aware we might need to clarify what we mean. We hope the garments we make will speak for themselves on the topic and we don’t think people who invest in them should require a complicated back story. But there’s considerable passion in what we do and it’s true that some of our approaches are unconventional.
WE DON’T STITCH BUTTONS. NOT REALLY
For example, for a collection that takes part of its inspiration from the rugged utility of the workwear tradition, we believe functional components like fasteners should be crafted and assembled with a focus on durability. In our case this led to the decision to never stitch on a closure button. While stitching a button can be a durable technique, we’re more comfortable with constructions rooted in workwear or military specifications.
TAPE-THROUGH | TRACK BUTTONS
One of our approaches is to employ tape-through buttons sometimes called track or parachute buttons. These feature a set of two parallel slots so they can be threaded onto taping sections that are then machined directly to the garment with running seams along both edges. You can find this assembly on a wide range of styles from outerwear to trousers to shirts.
RING-BACK | BUTCHER BUTTONS
Another approach features ring-back buttons sometimes called butcher buttons. Instead of holes for stitching, these feature metal rings on the back. The rings are pushed through an embroidered hole in the garment and secured in place with a split ring. The assembly is similar in some ways to how cotter-pins are used to fasten machine parts. The system is extremely dependable and has the added advantage that buttons can be easily removed and reattached. Military dress tunics often feature brass versions with the system allowing the buttons to be removed for polishing.
MILLED HORN
You won’t find any mass-produced molded fasteners on our garments. For tape-through buttons we either use natural horn or Ultem®. Natural horn has been used since the times of the Egyptian pharaohs and Roman emperors and is still favored for high quality workwear and tailored pieces. It’s resilient, sustainable, loaded with natural character and a warm touch.
MACHINED ULTEM®
Ultem® is an aerospace-grade polymer used primarily for aerospace and medical applications due to its insane strength-to-weight ratio and remarkable stability at high and low temperatures. To our knowledge it has not been used in clothing before. It comes only in a translucent amber or ash-black which is great since those are two of our favorite colors.
In order to adapt this material to work within our designs, we have individually machined each fastener one-by-one using CNC (computer numeric control) milling. If you look closely, you’ll be able to see that they’re not molded or mass-produced. The machining creates a subtle eggshell surface which is both easy on the eye and lovely to the touch.
